I'd rather have a safer car than one with everything hacked up to loose 500 lbs.
Carbon fiber doesnt belong on a grand prix. Waste of effort and time if you ask me, besides it's going to be a NA build and likely he doesnt care about trap speeds.
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I'd rather have a safer car than one with everything hacked up to loose 500 lbs.
Carbon fiber doesnt belong on a grand prix. Waste of effort and time if you ask me, besides it's going to be a NA build and likely he doesnt care about trap speeds.
Cam he is talking about having the parts made eventually obviously he sees a benifit from them if it ever happens.
As for safety get a cage if needed or tracked i doubt either.
Annnnd carbon has nothing to do with taking out airbag or crash bars or seat harnesses the cf body parts are cosmetic only and have zero safety benifit.
You could drive around with out any fenders no bumpers no hood no trunk lid and notice what in a crash? Likely nothing
The plan is to turn this car into a mild weekend warrior as I'm looking to get into SCCA and start with autocross...no I don't expect to win but I could be competitive...with that being said, I'm looking at this build as a solid foundation that would work well turbo for when the more power bug hits me (this is not the immediate goal because I'm not looking forward to a tranny rebuild anytime soon, and the cost of turbo as well...I'm just saying its a future possibility)
As far as the carbon fiber goes the purpose is both form and function. With the amount of components I'm looking to replace it would greatly lighten the car. The best part is that I am in control of any design changes which means I can keep her from ricin' out. No foot tall spoilers here lol
...on a different note I just had my codes read at the local AutoZone and I have P0141 which is O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 2...correct me if I'm wrong but isn't that the one right before the Cat? Also had a code that said "maximum long shift" that's a new one for me...I just changed Tranny fluid and added Lucas Oil Transmission fix...think that could be the cause?
Last edited by Chief Runs With Coyotes; 03-30-2014 at 10:19 AM.
Bank 1 sensor 2 is behind the cat, we only have two o2 sensors.
I assume the code is p18xx for max adapt/long shift something or other. Pretty common code to come up. Most people will install a shift kit to fix the problem. It should fix it for a while, but it might come back later on.
Hit up triple edge performace.com and read that site and the common issues page, it has all the info on it.
Will do...Thank you!
Unplug your neg battery cable because your trans is confused on the new fluids if you didnt unplug it when changing them out.
Okay so I've spent some time this last week researching and contemplating what should be done for this N/A top swap with my main focus on the heads, so here's my question: If I face mill .030" off of the heads it will up my compression ratio to 10:1 and will net me roughly a 4% power increase, is there enough travel to avoid collision? And is it worth it to risk it? All said and done more power is more power, but it must be reliable. ZZP says they won't mill off more than .030" so is it collision or fear of detonation?
On a similar note, would it be even more beneficial to mill the heads then dish the pistons with a .030" or less inverted dish? Yes the compression ratio would return to 9.4:1 but the directional force as gathered by the dishes piston, and the slight reduction in rotating mass would build power but then I would be worried that the piston face may be too thin...any ideas going forward? Thanks in advance!
3800 heads hate to be milled even .001... going with a 030 mill introduces alot more chances to warp more than they already do.
That wouldnt tell you anything.Why not just get an adjustable pushrod from jegs or summit and see how much room you have from TDC to full open of the valves?
Perhaps I should make up some of the height difference with a thinner gasket? ZZP says their max that they are comfortable milling down is .030, if it works for them it should work for me right?
@DarkHorizon: is this from personal experience? Have you had an issue with head warp? And .001" difference wouldn't make a difference but I could see it past the 32nd range...I've worked with metal for the last decade, and I would have never thought about warp issues from a few thousandths...I really need to get my hands on some used L26 heads so I can get a feel for their machinability potential. Problem is that I am swamped at work right now and on the 29th it's going to get crazier as I will be teaching a day class as well so ill be working from 7:15am to 10:30pm...yay...
Yes the adjustable pushrod woud be needed for checking pushrod length on a diffetent cam I had that assbackwards. If you plan on taking the heads off i guess you'd have to use the clay method and crank it over TDC to BDC for each intake and exhaust cycle.
I need to look more but isnt there a way to check mathematically? Thats what I was after.
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